The Top Three Things Most Home Buyers Want To Know? 1. Is The House Cute?2. Will My Furniture Fit?3. Can I Afford It?And While These Questions Are Very Important,

There Are Some Other Very Important Things That You Need To Know About The Home As Well.  While there are exceptions, most all homes will require some sort of typical maintenance and/or minor repairs. The home inspection report will inform you of any noted concerns with all accessible areas/systems and components of the home and suggest remedies, corrections and maintenance. 

For instance, how old is the roof and what condition is it in?  If the roof shingles are as curly as Tammy Faye Baker’s eyelashes then the home will soon need new shingles.   The average 20 year roof shingle typically lasts 15 to 17 years.

What type of exterior siding does the house have?  Some types of siding really don’t have a lot of ongoing maintenance issues.  Two types of siding that can be problematic are fiberboard sidings and synthetic stucco.  If the fiberboard siding has been adequately maintained over the years it might be in satisfactory condition.  However, most homeowners didn’t know that fiberboard siding needed the amount of maintenance that it did and lots of it is found in poor condition.

 Synthetic stucco is somewhat problematic because once water gets behind the synthetic stucco it doesn’t evaporate back out.  So when water builds up behind the synthetic stucco, the wood framing of the house suffers.  In many cases owners of synthetic stucco homes didn’t know they had a problem until they noticed the interior walls of the home were wet.  Synthetic stucco requires a lot of ongoing maintenance as well.

Let’s talk about the mechanical systems of the house, how about the water heater?  How old is it?  The average lifespan of a water heater is five to 10 years.  Sure a water heater can last a lot longer than that but when it’s older than 10 years its very energy inefficient.

Heating and air-conditioning system.  The average lifespan of an air-conditioning unit is 7 to 12 years.  And the average lifespan for a furnace is 12 to 18 years.  One of the other things you have to think about is energy efficiency.  If the units are very old then they are likely not as efficient and it’s going to be more expensive to heat and cool. Okay, next let’s talk about what type of foundation the home has.  A lot of older homes have a concrete block basement or crawlspace.  Concrete block in many cases allows water to come through into the basement or crawlspace and it’s also subject to cracking.  Horizontal cracks can be of concern and further evaluation and estimates for repair may be recommended. This is because water pressure has typically forced the foundation wall in. The good news is that repairs are common in our area and many reputable companies offer Lifetime guarantees.  Regardless of the foundation type, You need to be on guard for mold.  If you go into a basement or crawlspace and water is coming in from the outside there’s a good chance mold will also be present.  And if there is standing water in the crawlspace this drastically increases the likelihood of mold being present.  Often times the first indication of mold is a very musty type smell when you open the door into the basement or crawl space.

Another important thing you need to look for in a home is what type of materials are the plumbing pipes made of.  If the pipes are copper or PVC then there’s probably nothing to worry about.  However, if they’re galvanized pipe that can be a problem.  The other type that’s gotten quite a bit of negative publicity has been Polybutlene Pipe.  Of course the electrical supply, panel box and wiring are always critical issues to be closely inspected.  A minimum of no less than 100 amps and with today’s electrical demands, a 200 Amp service is highly recommended.

What is it worth to know your family is safe?  Hazardous condition were found during a recent home warranty inspection in a 1 year old. The owner wasn’t sure if he should spend the money for the inspection. Along with being informed of other needed maintenance issues the $225 he spent may have saved his and his family’s lives.Close inspection of the attic for proper ventilation is very important to avoid moisture related issues such as mold. Mold is commonly found growing in the attic from lack of proper ventilation and insulation is often found placed over the exterior vents.Also very commonly found, even in new construction, is the bath exhaust not vented to the exterior and causing mold to develop in the attic. While this only scratches the surface of the inspection process you should now have a better understanding of what to expect as well as the importance of having your new home carefully inspected. We take great pride in helping you find the right home for you and your family.  

Order on line and save $25.00 off your home inspection. www.certaintyinspections.com

 

   

GETTING AN INSPECTION ON A HOME BEFORE IT GETS PUT ON THE MARKET WILL EASE THE HOME SELLER’S FRUSTRATION WITH THE SALES PROCESS     There is a lot of frustration associated with selling a home in today’s real estate market.  Prices of homes are down, there’s the ‘mortgage crunch,’ and there are a lot of homes on the market as well.    Home buyers are definitely in the ‘driver’s seat!’    “But one easy and inexpensive thing the home seller can do to get their house sold quicker, with less hassle and often times for more money is to get an inspection on the home before they list it for sale,” William of Certainty Home Inspections said.  It’s much better for the home seller to understand the issues with the house and deal with them before the buyers arrive in order to increase the chances of  the sale moving forward.” “Potential home buyers want to purchase a home that is in tip-top shape, no matter the age of the home,” Vance said. There is one secret all home sellers need to know; home buyers make their decision to purchase a home based on emotion and then they justify their decision with logic.   And another thing is equally true: home buyer’s can fall out of love with a home just as quickly as they fell in love with it. So why allow a buyers inspector to develop a laundry list of  issues with the home and potentially jeopardizing the sale of the property?  That’s why having an inspection on the home before you put it on the market makes complete sense.     A Pre-listing Home Inspection will not only reveal the issues the seller needs to be aware of, but it gives the seller time to obtain multiple bids for the work that needs to be done and to select the best contractors at the best price.   Best of all, having the inspection done before showing the home will make the home more marketable; in better condition for viewing, and help the seller attain the maximum selling price.   “The intent of my Pre-Listing Inspection is not to find the $200 problems; it is to find the $2,000 problems. These are the things that affect people’s decision to purchase,” Vance said.  These types of problems are generally unknown to the seller and they can be deal breakers.      A home inspection done by a professional home inspector is a thorough, in-depth visual examination of the structure and operating components of the home.  It includes such components as landscaping effects on the foundation, structural components, roofing, chimneys, gutters and downspouts, siding and trim, attics, plumbing, electrical, heating, interior rooms, and the condition of the basement or crawl space.    “I understand that a seller doesn’t want to hear any bad news,” William said.  But they have to realize that no home is perfect, and as soon as they understand that, they are on the way to making their home more Marketable.  Remember, making your home the most marketable it can be should be their number one goal.  That’s why I recommend having a Pre-Listing Inspection done upfront.”

William Troutman   Certainty Home Inspections PO Box 144 | Salem, IN | 47167   Toll Free: 1 (866) 417-9591 Visit us at www.CertaintyInspections.com   Email: William@CertaintyInspections.com Make Your Decision With “Certainty”

If your family gets drinking water from a private well, do you know if your water is safe to drink? What health risks could you and your family face? Where can you go for help or advice?

EPA regulates public water systems; it does not have the authority to regulate private drinking water wells. Approximately 15 percent of Americans rely on their own private drinking water supplies, and these supplies are not subject to EPA standards, although some state and local governments do set rules to protect users of these wells. Unlike public drinking water systems serving many people, they do not have experts regularly checking the water’s source and its quality before it is sent to the tap. These households must take special precautions to ensure the protection and maintenance of their drinking water supplies.

Proper well construction and continued maintenance are keys to the safety of your water supply. Your state water-well contractor licensing agency, local health department, or local water system professional can provide information on well construction.

The well should be located so rainwater flows away from it. Rainwater can pick up harmful bacteria and chemicals on the land’s surface. If this water pools near your well, it can seep into it, potentially causing health problems.

Water-well drillers and pump-well installers are listed in your local phone directory. The contractor should be bonded and insured. Make certain your ground water contractor is registered or licensed in your state, if required. If your state does not have a licensing/registration program contact the National Ground Water Association. They have a voluntary certification program for contractors. (In fact, some states use the Association’s exams as their test for licensing.) For a list of certified contractors in your state contact the Association at (614) 898-7791 or (800) 551-7379. There is no cost for mailing or faxing the list to you.

To keep your well safe, you must be sure possible sources of contamination are not close by. Experts suggest the following distances as a minimum for protection — farther is better (see graphic on the right):

• Septic Tanks, 50 feet
• Livestock yards, Silos, Septic Leach Fields, 50 feet
• Patroleum Tanks, Liquid-Tight Manure Storage and Fertilizer Storage and Handling, 100 feet
• Manure Stacks, 250 feet

Many homeowners tend to forget the value of good maintenance until problems reach crisis levels. That can be expensive. It’s better to maintain your well, find problems early, and correct them to protect your well’s performance. Keep up-to-date records of well installation and repairs plus pumping and water tests. Such records can help spot changes and possible problems with your water system. If you have problems, ask a local expert to check your well construction and maintenance records. He or she can see if your system is okay or needs work.

Protect your own well area. Be careful about storage and disposal of household and lawn care chemicals and wastes. Good farmers and gardeners minimize the use of fertilizers and pesticides. Take steps to reduce erosion and prevent surface water runoff. Regularly check underground storage tanks that hold home heating oil, diesel, or gasoline. Make sure your well is protected from the wastes of livestock, pets, and wildlife.

Housing Crash - Realtors Quit
By Patrik Jonsson
Christian Science Monitor
1-9-8 

ATLANTA - After three years showing houses in Atlanta’s                    hilly suburbs, Dee McMahon is finished with real estate.                       Yanking up her custom-made “For Sale” signs in her North                   Lake neighborhood rattled her ego, she admits. But when                       Ms. McMahon closed her final sale, a house in Snellville,                        Ga., in late November, the mother of two felt a swell of relief.                      “Now I can finally get my own house back together,” she says.                “I’m nervous about the future, but I feel happy.”   McMahon is                one of thousands of real estate agents across the US wandering                  with mixed emotions and uncertain prospects through the debris                of a real estate gold rush.   As many train for new careers, return                to old ones, or wait tables until prices rebound, the plight of the               real estate agent ­ average age, 51 ­ reveals the human dimension                of how loose lending, raw opportunity, and self-determination                produced a housing bust that has stunned the US economy.               “They’ve tasted success and big money, and now their                standard of living has been rocked and reality has set in,”                         says John Baen, a real estate professor at the University of                   North Texas in Denton. “The whole [economy] has been built                   on real estate. When the music stops, what is left?”   Americans               are still drawn to working in real estate, according to the National Association of Realtors, which says its membership rose this year               to 1.35 million. That growth in the ranks may be attributed to              unaffiliated agents scrambling for clout in a tough market rather                  than an indication that the total number of agents is rising, the                NAR acknowledges.   Evidence is growing that agents, especially                in hard-hit markets like Florida, California, and Georgia, are                closing up shop in large numbers, experts say.   In Atlanta,                        the number of agents letting their licenses lapse is growing at a              faster pace than the number of overall licenses held. Nationally,                 an average agent’s income dropped from $49,300 to $47,900            between 2004 and 2006. Not helping that trend is the cold fact               that, according to Standard & Poor’s house price index, home                 prices dropped precipitously in 2007, breaking the record 6.1              percent annual decline in 1991.   In Cape Coral, Fla., where                    only 30 percent of agents sold even a single home last year,                     real estate agents are “dropping out” daily, says local realtor                Ginette Young. The Oregon Association of Realtors reports an               11.5 percent decline statewide of licensed agents in the past year.              Many of those who leave quietly shelve their signs. Others go out            big: In Gilbert, Ariz., the fastest-growing city in the fastest-growing        state, RE/MAX 2000 closed 13 offices throughout the Valley of the          Sun, laying off at least 20 employees and scores of contract                  agents right before Christmas. The company couldn’t meet its           expenses.   Real estate is a line of work filled with mothers returning           to the workforce, older workers squeezed out of lifetime careers,             and young opportunists looking to trade sweat equity for potentially          big cash-outs. Indeed, the industry norm is that only 4 percent of         agents choose real estate sales as a first career.   In Georgia, realty         ranks had swelled to 48,000 at the peak of the market. In the end,        many say, there were too many inexperienced agents hawking            houses.   “There’s a lot of money being spent [on real estate               classes] teaching agents how to waste a year of their life,” says           Atlanta agent Sandy Koza. “Then you get a downturn and a                 bunch of people get bumped. To [experienced agents like] us,                    it cleans out the business a little bit.”   Florida’s Cape Coral, a               canal-sliced beach community, saw 800 building permits a                     month fall to 25 to 30 in the past year. The rapid slowdown                    left real estate agents, investors, and brokers holding the bag                     on big-money deals.   “It’s a gold-rush mentality,” says Michael            Davis, an economist at Southern Methodist University’s Cox              School of Business in Dallas. He has been struck by how many          agents, brokers, and investors, acting against conventional wisdom            of portfolio management, converted large percentages of cash           holdings into only a single and somewhat risky investment:                property. “I don’t know whether they’re ignorant or optimistic,               perhaps a little of both,” says Dr. Davis.   Many others became                  the foot soldiers in the housing boom, second- or third-careerists          drawn to the self-determination, relatively low entrance costs,                  and perhaps even the allure of the trade as embodied by novelist        Richard Ford’s legendary character Frank Bascombe, an                      angst-driven realtor who wanders the Jersey Shore for deals                   and revelations.   A former computer developer, Thomas Banecke             of Sandy Springs, Ga., spent most of the summer baby-sitting a             new condo development ­ usually a plum assignment. But when               the Atlanta condo market tanked, foot traffic dwindled to almost            zero.   Mr. Banecke is now back in the computer business and is         putting his real estate career on hold. In some ways, he says,                   the cold housing market forced real estate agents, especially              rookies, to confront their own abilities, schemes, and dreams.           Upfront costs, marketing, association fees, and the crucial                contacts are either more costly or harder to procure than an                  aspiring real estate agent usually expects, Banecke says.                                “This kind of thing will wipe up a whole bunch of people                         who thought they could do this to make a living,” he says.                              As for McMahon, the Atlanta agent, she still had a nice                          listing book and plenty of leads when she called it quits. In                      the end, unreliable buyers, surly sellers, and a lack of office                   camaraderie contributed to a decision that solidified when home                 sales and prices dipped. “I was waiting for a time to kind of                 swing out,” she says. She’s planning to become a high school                  science teacher.   One problem for out-of-work agents is that                       their skills may not transfer easily to other careers. California                      is waiting to hear on a $9 million federal retraining grant after                  6,000 people lost their jobs in the housing industry since                    September.   But Dr. Baen of the University of North                          Texas is optimistic about their futures. “These people are                       hustlers, hard workers. They’re used to getting on the phone,                      ” he says. “They’ll end up in insurance, in mutual funds, in                   retirement planning, and commodities.”   Copyright © 2008 http://us.rd.yahoo.com/dailynews/csm/brand/SIG=114211ceu/**htt p%3A%2F%2Fwww.csmonitor.com%2F The Christian Science Monitor

 William Certainty Home Inspections       www.certaintyinspections.com      866-417-9591

What is Polybutylene? Polybutylene is a form of plastic resin that was used extensively in the manufacture of water supply piping from 1978 until 1995. Due to the low cost of the material and ease of installation, polybutylene piping systems were viewed as “the pipe of the future” and were used as a substitute for traditional copper piping. It is most commonly found in the “Sun Belt” where residential construction was heavy through the 1980’s and early-to-mid 90’s, but it is also very common in the Mid Atlantic and Northwest Pacific states. The piping systems were used for underground water mains and as interior water distribution piping. Industry experts believe it was installed in at least 6 million homes, and some experts indicate it may have been used in as many as 10 million homes. Most probably, the piping was installed in about one in every four or five homes built during the years in which the pipe was manufactured. How to Tell If You Have Polybutylene PipingExterior - Polybutylene underground water mains are usually blue, but may be gray or black (do not confuse black poly with polyethelene pipe). It is usually 1/2″ or 1″ in diameter, and it may be found entering your home through the basement wall or floor, concrete slab or coming up through your crawlspace; frequently it enters the home near the water heater. Your main shutoff valve is attached to the end of the water main. Also, you should check at the water meter that is located at the street, near the city water main. It is wise to check at both ends of the pipe because we have found cases where copper pipe enters the home, and poly pipe is at the water meter. Obviously, both pipes were used and connected somewhere underground. Interior - Polybutylene used inside your home can be found near the water heater, running across the ceiling in unfinished basements, and coming out of the walls to feed sinks and toilets. Warning: In some regions of the country, plumbers used copper “stub outs” where the pipe exits a wall to feed a fixture, so seeing copper here does not mean that you do not have poly. Will the Pipes Fail?While scientific evidence is scarce, it is believed that oxidants in the public water supplies, such as chlorine, react with the polybutylene piping and acetal fittings causing them to scale and flake and become brittle. Micro-fractures result, and the basic structural integrity of the system is reduced. Thus, the system becomes weak and may fail without warning causing damage to the building structure and personal property. It is believed that other factors may also contribute to the failure of polybutylene systems, such as improper installation, but it is virtually impossible to detect installation problems throughout an entire system. Throughout the 1980’s lawsuits were filed complaining of allegedly defective manufacturing and defective installation causing hundreds of millions of dollars in damages. Although the manufacturers have never admitted that poly is defective, they have agreed to fund the Class Action settlement with an initial and minimum amount of $950 million. You’ll have to contact the appropriate settlement claim company to find out if you qualify under this settlement.   If you want “Peace Of Mind” for your next
home purchase, plus lots of extra value, then
give Certainty Home Inspections a call Today
to schedule your home inspection! Call Right Now: 1-866-417-9591

Ten simple steps you can take to keep your septic system working properly.

1.Locate your septic tank and drainfield. Keep a drawing of these locations in your records.

2.Have your septic system inspected at least every three years.

3.Pump your septic tank as needed (generally every three to five years).

4.Don’t dispose of household hazardous wastes in sinks or toilets.

5.Keep other household items, such as dental floss, feminine hygiene products, condoms, diapers, and cat litter out of your system.

6.Use water efficiently.

7.Plant only grass over and near your septic system. Roots from nearby trees or shrubs might clog and damage the system. Also, do not apply manure or fertilizers over the drainfield.

8.Keep vehicles and livestock off your septic system. The weight can damage the pipes and tank, and your system may not drain properly under compacted soil.

9.Keep gutters and basement sump pumps from draining into or near your septic system.

10.  Check with your local health department before using additives. Commercial septic tank additives do not eliminate the need for periodic pumping and can be harmful to your system.

How does it work? 

A typical septic system has four main components: a pipe from the home, a septic tank, a  drainfield, and the soil. Microbes in the soil digest or remove most contaminants from wastewater before it eventually reaches groundwater. The septic tank is a buried, watertight container typically made of concrete, fiberglass, or polyethylene. It holds the wastewater long enough to allow solids to settle out (forming sludge) and oil and grease to float to the surface (as scum). It also allows partial decomposition of the solid materials. Compartments and a T-shaped outlet in the septic tank prevent the sludge and scum from leaving the tank and traveling into the drainfield area. Screens are also recommended to keep solids from entering the drainfield. The wastewater exits the septic tank and is discharged into the drainfield for further treatment by the soil. Microorganisms in the soil provide final treatment by removing harmful bacteria, viruses, and nutrients.

Your septic system is your responsibility!                                                                                                                                                                      Did you know that as a homeowner you’re responsible for maintaining your septic system? Did you know that maintaining your septic system protects your investment in your home? Did you know that you should periodically inspect your system and pump out your septic tank? If properly designed, constructed, and maintained, your septic system can provide long-term, effective treatment of household wastewater. If your septic system isn’t maintained, you might need to replace it, costing you thousands of dollars. A malfunctioning system can contaminate groundwater that might be a source of drinking water. And if you sell your home, your septic system must be in good working order.

Pump frequently…You should have your septic system inspected at least every 3 years by a professional and your tank pumped as necessary (generally every 3 to 5 years).

Use water efficiently…

Average indoor water use in the typical single-family home is almost 70 gallons per person per day. Dripping faucets can waste about 2,000 gallons of water each year. Leaky toilets can waste as much as 200 gallons each day. The more water a household conserves, the less water enters the septic system.

 

Flush responsibly… 

Dental floss, feminine hygiene products, condoms, diapers, cotton swabs, cigarette butts, coffee grounds, cat litter, paper towels, and other kitchen and bathroom items can clog and potentially damage septic system components. Flushing household chemicals, gasoline, oil, pesticides, antifreeze and paint can stress or destroy the biological treatmen taking place in the system or might contaminate surface waters and groundwater.

 

How do I maintain my septic system?

·   Plant only grass over and near your septic system. Roots from nearby trees or shrubs might clog and damage the drainfield.

·   Don’t drive or park vehicles on any part of your septic system. Doing so can compact the soil in your drainfield or damage the pipes, tank, or other septic system components.

·   Keep roof drains, basement sump pump drains, and other rainwater or surface water drainage systems away from the drainfield. Flooding the drainfield with excessive water slows down or stops treatment processes and can cause plumbing fixtures to back up. 

Why should I maintain my septic system?

 

A key reason to maintain your septic system is to save money! Failing septic systems are expensive to repair or replace, and poor maintenance is often the culprit. Having your septic system inspected (at least every 3 years) is a bargain when you consider the cost of replacing the entire system. Your system will need pumping every 3 to 5 years, depending on how many people live in the house and the size of the system. An unusable septic system or one in disrepair will lower your property’s value and could pose a legal liability. Other good reasons for safe treatment of sewage include preventing the spread of infection an disease and protecting water resources. Typical pollutants in household wastewater are nitrogen phosphorus, and disease-causing bacteria and viruses. Nitrogen and phosphorus are aquati plant nutrients that can cause unsightly algae blooms. Excessive nitrate-nitrogen in drinking wate can cause pregnancy complications, as well as methemoglobinemia (also known as blue baby syndrome) in infancy. Pathogens can cause communicable diseases through direct or indirect body contact or ingestion of contaminated water or shellfish. If a septic system is working properly, it will effectively remove most of these pollutants.

 

It’s time to think about winterizing your house, no matter whether you’ll be there all winter or plan to be away for an extended period. The tasks aren’t overwhelming when you prepare for winter one step at a time, and if you plan to be home, you’ll be glad you did, because the steps you take will protect your property and save you dollars in heating costs.

Air leakage accounts for about 30 percent of heating expenses. Experts agree on these recommendations:

Seal Leaks around Doors and Windows

• Add or replace worn weather-stripping around doors and windows.
• Caulk gaps where necessary.
• Replace worn doorstops at the bottom of doors.
• If you have them, install storm doors and windows. Don’t forget to winterize basement windows.
• Plastic window wraps are low cost and very effective.

 Seal Other Leaks

• Use caulking and weather-stripping around entry points for all pipes and ducts that travel through an exterior wall.
• Install insulating kits behind electrical plugs that are on a wall with an exterior side.
• If you have a crawl space, make sure the vents are closed and you have a good vapor barrier (6-mil polyethylene) on the ground. If you don’t have insulation in the floor, consider adding R-19 insulation batts.  

Heating System Checks

• Have a qualified heating contractor inspect and service your system to ensure it is safe and working at peak efficiency.
• Vacuum the vents and other heating components. Keep heat vents unobstructed by furniture.
• If it has one, replace the furnace filter. Make future replacements as needed or directed by your furnace manufacturer.
• Consider installing a setback thermostat. It regulates the temperature, allowing the home to be cooler when you are away or asleep.
• Close the fireplace damper when not in use.
• Make sure that all ductwork is sealed at joints and intersections with duct sealer or silicone caulk. Otherwise supply ductwork can leak heated air into the attic or crawl space, and outside air can be drawn into the return ductwork, increasing costs and reducing comfort dramatically.
• Set the thermostat at 68 degrees or the lowest temperature you find comfortable. For every degree you lower the setting, you can see a difference of up to 3 percent in energy costs. Setting it lower at night will produce savings with gas and oil systems, but is not recommended for heat pump systems unless you have a programmable thermostat specifically designed for that system.
• Trim or remove grass, weeds, leaves, etc. from around the outdoor unit of your heating or cooling system. When airflow is blocked, it puts a strain on the system and lowers efficiency.

 Check the Roof & Its Neighbors

• Replace loose shingles.
• Make sure the flashing around the chimney or vent pipes are watertight.
• Check the bricks and mortar.
• Install a screen at the top of the chimney to keep leaves and other items out.
• Clean drain gutters and point downspouts away from the house.
• Trim tree limbs that are hanging over or touching the roof.

Winterize the Plumbing

• Take care of known issues with pipes that freeze. Heat tape can be used to keep them warm during extremely cold weather.
• Learn how to turn off water at its source so that you can stop leaks immediately if they start.
• Drain water from outdoor faucets when you think a hard freeze is coming.

 Winterizing Outdoor Items

• Give decks an additional coat of sealer.
• Check the foundation and siding for cracks or gaps. Repair as necessary.
• Drain garden hoses, roll them up, and store them inside.
• Close and cover the swimming pool.
• Prune shrubbery and add mulch to perennial flowerbeds.
• Cover outdoor furniture or store it inside.

Mold

 

What’s the Cause

Mold cannot exist without moisture. Therefore, any moisture whatsoever, whether it be from inadequate grading and drainage, a leaking roof, window, or door, or moisture from a faulty exhaust vent, a condensate pipe, an evaporator coil, or a component of a plumbing system should be serviced immediately, or the potential for mold contamination will remain. 

 What’s the Concern            Mold is a microorganism that has tiny seeds, or spores, that are spread on the air, land, and feed on organic matter. It has been in existence throughout human history, and actually contributes to the life process. It takes many different forms, many of them benign, like mildew. Some characterized as allergens are relatively benign but              can provoke allergic reactions among sensitive people, and others characterized as pathogens can have adverse health effects on large segments of the population, such as the very young, the elderly, and people with suppressed immune systems. However, there are less common molds that are called toxigens that represent a serious health threat. All molds flourish in the presence of moisture, and we make a concerted effort to look for any evidence of it wherever there could be a water source, including that from condensation. Interestingly, the molds that commonly appear on ceramic tiles in bathrooms do not usually constitute a health threat, but they should be removed. However, some visibly similar molds that form on cellulose materials, such as on drywall, plaster, and wood, are potentially toxigenic. If mold is to be found anywhere within a home, it will likely be in the area of tubs, showers, toilets, sinks, water heaters, evaporator coils, inside attics with un-vented bathroom exhaust fans, and return-air compartments that draw outside air, all of which are areas that we inspect very conscientiously. Nevertheless, mold can appear as though spontaneously at any time, so you should be prepared to monitor your home, and particularly those areas that we identified. Naturally, it is equally important to maintain clean air-supply ducts and to change filters as soon as they become soiled, because contaminated ducts are a common breeding ground for dust mites, rust, and other contaminants. Regardless, although some mold-like substances may be visually identified, the specific identification of molds can only be determined by specialists and laboratory analysis. As a prudent investment in environmental hygiene, we categorically recommend that you have your home tested for the presence of any such contaminants, and particularly if you or any member of your family suffers from allergies or asthma. Also, you can learn more about mold from an Environmental Protection Agency document entitled “A Brief Guide to Mold, Moisture and Your Home,” by visiting their web site at: http://www.epa.gov/iaq/molds/moldguide.html/, from which it can be downloaded